Thursday, April 2, 2009

Savannah: My Favorite Sister City

With Spanish Moss dripping from centuries old Live Oaks, Savannah is sultry and enveloping from the moment you enter one of America's oldest cities. Laid out on a perfect grid with a series of public squares, Savannah appears to be a city of order. Oh, how looks can deceive! Like a woman with a neglige on underneath a trench coat, Savannah never fails to entertain and delight, and that is why we love her.

We have a saying in the South: "If you're from Augusta, they ask you when you made your Debut. If you're from Charleston, they ask you who your Daddy is. But if you're from Savannah, they ask you what you want to drink." Charleston is beloved for her rich history so pristinely preserved with a tourist industry that rivals any city in America. But Savannah is like the wild-child, step-child who was always marching one step behind and slightly to the left. Whether it is her slightly darker side that enthralls, or just her easy-going demeanor, Savannah is not as serious as Charleston.

Unlike Charleston's fancy high street, King Street, Savannah's antique dealers are tucked away in obscure locations that have to be sought out. Often it is the quest that is half the fun of antiquing in Savannah. And while the Historic Foundation of Charleston is to be commended for the jewel that the city is, it is true that the Savannah College of Art and Design saved Savannah. While educating students in architecture, design, and techniques, the college made an astounding impact on the preservation of many of the city's most important buildings.

While Savannah does have excellent restaurants, it is usually the low country boil at someone's home that is the most entertaining and delicious dinner invitation. And there are some lovely hotels and B&B's, though most are in the unfortunate Victorian style. But one does not go to Savannah for the food and lodging, or for the antiques and shopping. No. One goes to Savannah to soak in the lack of pretense; the lack of formality; the complete immersion in a city totally at ease with itself. Go to Savannah to sit in a sidewalk cafe or in a city square and take in the great diversity that is what Savannah is today. Go listen for the wild-child city to speak to you. She will take you by the hand and you will fall in love with her.

St. Andrews from the Cathedral